Mg midget how tall

Wondering where is the best place to list it for sale. Gary, it sounds without seeing it like you could have a nice, low-mileage example of the MG Midget on your hands.

Do check the value using the Hagerty Price Guide, and allow accordingly for the low mileage. If you see any example of a similar age, condition and mileage that has sold elsewhere relatively recently, note the selling price.

Again, look for similar cars and what they have recently sold for. And finally, you could try the online auction sites, but do compare the terms and conditions of such sites carefully.

Hope that helps. James Mills, Ed. With the steering wheel off it is pretty easy to get in and out of the car. Your email address will not be published. Save my name and email in this browser for the next time I comment. Share Leave comment. How much is your car to insure? Find out in four easy steps. Pin 8. You may also like. Buying Guide: Ford Model T. A story about. Your weekly dose of car news from Hagerty in your inbox. See more newsletters. Problems getting in and out I can deal with, but if I'm folded up once inside the car, that's no good.

Thanks again everyone, I appreciate the input! Morgantown, USA. On my first tank of gas I got 34 mpg, mostly highway at mph, but included about 2 hrs of stop and go traffic getting through Chicago. Top Contributor.

I'm 6' 1" and weigh I think the comfort level depends on how long your legs are. If you are very long legged you might have a problem at your altitude. I sit my butt in first and get it way over to the center and then swing both legs in and get out the same way. Once in and driving my right leg is bent pretty good and my knee is in close proximity to the key. But it works for me.

I drive 50 miles 1 way to work everyday. And I get 32 mpg, a little better depending on the way I drive it. Bill Young. I'm 6'4" and weigh around and fit pretty well, but it depends on your proportions. If you have long legs in relation to your body you may have problems and if your torso is long then head clearance with the top may be a problem.

To get an idea of my proportions, my inseam is 32". Photo of me driving the Midget shows where my head is, just fit under the top when up. JPG Mike Taylor. OH, USA. You're all so trim. I'm 6'1" and fit well. Entering with top down-right leg slides under wheel as arse moves towards seat. Once both body parts are in position wriggling around a bit and pulling the left leg in is no problem-unless I forget and have the wrong shoes on! My hiking sneakers get locked under the pedals so I have to make sure I have my driving shoes on.

These are slimmer profile "walking " sneakers. The doors are often an area to aware of rusting; pay particular attention along the bottoms and the front lower corners.

Because of the nature of these little cars, they are a convertible and as such have often been used in wet conditions; ingress of water through open top motoring or just leaks can often lead to constantly wet carpets and thus over time, rusting floors and sills. Because the roof is NOT a supporting panel, the main strength of the shell is in the inner and outer sills and the gearbox tunnel.

It is very rare that the gearbox tunnel will be found to have any corrosion due to engine and gearbox oil leaks over the years protecting it, the sills on the other hand are a key area of corrosion. Badly fitted sills or a damaged car can quite often be noticed when opening and closing the doors. The gaps should be neat and equal and the door should open and close with ease and should certainly not nip. The next areas of concern are the rear spring mountings. The early cars with the quarter elliptic are more vulnerable to corrosion as all the stress of the mounting is taken up in one area at each side of the car.

Look for collapsed spring box mountings or an uneven ride height as an indication of trouble. The later cars with the semi elliptical springs are still a cause for concern but less so. Rear wings and inner arches are quite often rusted away, pay particular attention to the area behind the back of the rear wing where it is a double skin and comes up to meet the boot floor. Finally the boot floor itself. Areas of corrosion are common along the back of the boot floor where it meets the rear panel.

Check for poor repairs here also. It came in various sizes ranging from the early cars with cc and then cc to the later models with the larger cc unit. Look for low oil pressure particularly when the engine is fully warmed up, a worn engine will breath and you can smell burnt oil and fumes from under the bonnet as well as the exhaust.

One engine that perhaps should be mentioned to take particular attention to is the early cc version fitted to the Mk2 Midget and Mk3 Sprite. These engines shared the same crankshaft as the Austin A40 and Morris Minor and whilst seemingly OK in these models was not a strong unit in a Spridget. A more substantial crankshaft was fitted to the later cc engines with engine number prefix 10CC and this shared the larger journal sizes of the Mini Cooper S range.

The cc engine was and still is a tuners delight, it is one of those engines that can be bored and stroked to nearly cc and develop very healthy power. I will not go down the route of tuning here except to say, beware of tuned and tired engines.

The later engine when in good fettle is a good unit and develops good power and torque, however it has a weakness. Its crankshaft journals are small and therefore their life is not long. I have heard of modifications to the lubrication system that drastically improves matters, but this is not an everyday modification.

These gearboxes are weak and spare parts are almost impossible to obtain now. However, those with early cars, do have less powerful engines and tend not to suffer too much trouble. A lot stronger gearbox and one that can be rebuilt. Going back to the standard gearboxes, the problems to be aware of are noisy first and reverse gears. Another thing to be aware of is worn synchromesh and gearbox internals. The later gearbox fitted to the cc models are a lot stronger but carry a weight penalty, they certainly are not a cause for major concern.

I have grouped this together as I feel it is one area of the car that can be covered as a whole. The front suspension and steering is often the MOT testers favourite area on these cars and particular attention must be taken to inspect these items carefully.

Wear and corrosion cause problems here and this is usually down to poor and irregular maintenance. There are between three and four greasing points on each front suspension and steering unit, these need lubrication very regularly and NOT with grease but with thick oil or a waterproof grease.

Other problems to be aware of may be track rod ends and play in the rack ends, but neither of these are major areas of concern. The front springs give little trouble but the rears start to sag after time and may require re-setting or replacement.

The rear axle usually gives little or no trouble but listen for a noisy differential. Occasionally the rear hubs may leak oil into the rear brakes but this is usually due to lack of inspection and servicing and is easily sorted.

The brakes on these little cars are very reliable when in good condition. Bad maintenance and worn parts can lead one into thinking that the brakes need up rating. The fronts require inspection now and again and the rears require regular adjustment to keep them performing well. The trim on the outside of the car is an aesthetic thing only.